Putting Northern cuisine on the world menu: Chef Abiro’s journey

From Bolgatanga in Ghana’s Upper East Region, Chef Abiro Seidu Napaana of Zuarungu is redefining what it means to cook and take pride in one’s heritage. His mission: to elevate Northern Ghanaian cuisine onto the global stage.

Raised in a household that emphasized gender equality, Abiro began cooking as a responsibility rather than rebellion. In a region where cooking is traditionally assigned to women, his early interest was unusual, but it quickly became a passion.

At Bolgatanga Senior High School, Abiro chose Home Economics over General Science, placing him among just five boys in his class. Despite bullying and skepticism from peers, he excelled academically, proving his capabilities and earning respect.

Abiro pursued Hotel, Catering, and Institutional Management at university, graduating in 2019. He noted that culinary schools often prioritized international cuisines—French, Italian, Mexican, and Chinese—while sidelining Ghanaian dishes. Determined to champion local cuisine, he joined the Ghana Food Movement, an organization promoting indigenous foods.

Focusing on Northern Ghanaian cuisine, Abiro highlights its nutrient-dense, climate-adapted dishes, such as wasawasa (millet-based) and tuo zaafi (soups with dried okra). To make these visually appealing, he reimagines traditional meals using modern plating techniques, maintaining authenticity while attracting contemporary audiences.

His work has gained international recognition. He has conducted cooking demonstrations in Italy, France, Morocco, Algeria, Senegal, and Canada, showcasing Ghanaian staples rather than continental dishes. For four consecutive years, he has represented Northern Ghanaian cuisine in Rome through programmes linked to the Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO).

Abiro also advocates for climate-resilient crops like fonio and millet, highlighting their potential to combat food insecurity and lifestyle diseases such as diabetes and hypertension. He believes Northern Ghanaian cuisine, rich in fibre, micronutrients, and plant proteins, will become central to global conversations on sustainable and healthy eating.

As Head Chef of the Ghana Food Movement, Abiro sees himself not just as a cook but as a cultural ambassador. His message to young chefs: success is possible when rooted in indigenous cuisine.

“I came from Zuarungu in the Upper East. If I can travel the world cooking Northern Ghanaian food, then any young chef who believes in their heritage can do the same,” he says.

For Chef Abiro, the kitchen is a platform for identity, pride, and transformation—one beautifully plated dish at a time.

By Esinam Jemima Kuatsinu

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