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Nyange: The sleeping capital of the Gonja Kingdom rises again

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• Ruins of an ancient building at Nyange

FEW miles from Damongo, in Ghana’s Savannah Region, is Nyange, a place which is divided by a busy major road from Tamale to Sawla, which looks abandoned because of the ruins of the buildings, but holds a history vast enough to have once anchored an entire kingdom.

Long before Damongo became the administrative heartbeat of Gonjaland, Nyange served as the spiritual and political centre of the Gonja Kingdom, the original seat of the Yagbonwura, home to ancestral palaces, ritual grounds, and the rituals that shaped kings.

One of the trees in the forest reserve which is used for the coffin for the Kings

For decades, Nyange drifted into silence, but after Yagbonwura Bii-Kunuto Jewu Soale I, the King and Overlord of the Gonja Kingdom, announced intentions to reconstruct elements of the old capital, I felt compelled to visit to see for myself what remained of this sacred landscape, and to understand why its revival matters now.

Walking through Nyange, I met a woman who we spent some time narrating briefly the unspoken chapters of Nyange history. The land according to her, still holds the outlines of what once defined a kingdom—the Gonja, the stone foundations of ancient palaces, sacred groves where rituals once echoed, and open courtyards where chiefs, land priests, and kingmakers shaped the affairs of the state—and the empty bricks and white dotted paint that host every late and Yagbonwura.

Nyange was the original home of the Ndewura Jakpa Palace, a towering symbol of power that stood until 1944, when Yagbonwura Awusi Ewuntomah of Daboya transferred the royal seat to Damongo. The administrative centre moved but Nyange’s spiritual authority never left.

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An iconic building the late and new Yagbonwuras are kept for rituals.

Where Every King Begins and Ends His Journey

My visit revealed why no Gonja story is complete without Nyange. Its significance is anchored in traditions still observed today.

When a Yagbonwura passes, the first funerary rituals begin in Nyange before the body travels to the Royal Mausoleum in Mankuma. The journey follows an ancient path that deliberately avoids Sawla—a tradition safeguarded for generations.

Rites That Begin a Reign

In 2023, whiles covering the enskinment of the Yagbonwura, he first arrives in Nyange to begin his sacred initiation, where every Yagbonwura has to start the initiation.

These rites, performed only here, link the new king to the ancestry of Ndewura Jakpa. For centuries, Nyange was the permanent residence of successive Yagbonwuras, where its soil is layered with leadership, legacy, and the quiet footsteps of royalty.

A Heritage Landscape Waiting to Be Reimagined

As we moved through the community, it became clear that Nyange holds immense potential for cultural tourism, research, and documentation.

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Still visible across the landscape are the ruins of palaces occupied by ancient Yagbonwuras, the tomb of Wasipewura Chinchanko of Daboya, remains of the stone palace of Yagbonwura Mahama Dagbonga of Bole, enskinment sites, sacred burial grounds, the Nyange Forest Reserve—long known for trees used in crafting royal coffins—and the homes of key custodians, including Nyangewura and Land Priest Vogu Jamani.

Nyange’s proximity to Mole National Park makes it ideal for an eco-cultural tourism circuit, weaving together wildlife, architecture, oral history, drumming, dance, and the lived memory of the Gonja people.

Local leaders are already discussing the creation of heritage trails, interpretive centres, and storytelling experiences led by community custodians.

Just beyond Nyange lies Larabanga, home to one of West Africa’s oldest Sudano-Sahelian mosques. Together, these two communities could anchor a cultural corridor capable of drawing visitors from across the world.

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Larabanga offers architectural and religious significance, whiles Nyange offers political and spiritual heritage. Together, they tell a complete story of identity, power, belief, and continuity.

As I spoke with some people in Nyange, I could feel both urgency and hope, when they outlined a clear vision for the future by the efforts of the Yagbonwura to restore palace ruins, document sacred sites, establish cultural education and preservation programme, and develop sustainable tourism models that benefit residents.

But more than infrastructure, they spoke of identity—emphasising that, “our history is here.”

Leaving Nyange, I carried with me the feeling of a place on the brink of transformation, the past lingers in its broken walls and ancient pathways, but the future feels within reach—guided by royal leadership, community pride, and the quiet determination to revive a forgotten capital.

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Nyange is not simply being restored, rather it is being reclaimed. And as the reconstruction efforts begin, the world may soon witness the rebirth of a capital that once shaped a kingdom and is ready to do so again.

From Geoffrey Buta, Nyange.

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Trailblazer: The woman who found purpose in her roots

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Mrs Osei Bonsu
Mrs Osei Bonsu

“We are always told what it is that we can’t do, but we must not allow the limitations placed on us to define who we are as women”- Mrs Lynn Osei-Bonsu

For many children raised in diplomatic homes, the world becomes a familiar territory where they easily get accustomed to. Countries change, schools change, friends change and home itself becomes fluid like a traversing stream.

However, for Mrs Lynn Osei Bonsu, one of Ghana’s foremost female communications strategist and philanthropist, life’s most defining lesson would come not from the polished streets of New York, where she spent part of her childhood, but from the quiet town of Jirapa in the Upper West Region.

Mrs Bonsu

Today, she leads uNuru Communications Group, a strategic communications firm delivering not just for its clients, but also helping in shaping the brand Ghana.

She also heads Trailblazers, a non-profit organisation committed to supporting women and children.

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Yet behind the polished corporate image is a deeply human story of identity, sacrifice, resilience and purpose.

A childhood between worlds

Born to Mr Hilary K. Ziniel, a diplomat father and Mrs Rose Ziniel a teacher mother, from Goziir in the Nandom District of the Upper West Region, she spent much of her early life outside Ghana due to her father’s regular postings with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

“My first memories are not growing up in Ghana,” she told The Spectator with utmost fondness.

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Mrs Bonsu at an event

But while her childhood stretched across countries and cultures, her father remained determined that his children would never lose sight of where they came from, as result when the family returned to Ghana after his postings in New York, he made a decision about Lynn’s education that initially devastated her.

Instead of enrolling her in one of the prestigious schools in Accra, he sent her to St. Francis Girls’ Senior High School in Jirapa. “He said I needed to know where I came from,” she recalls.

Harsh transition

Moving from New York to Ghana and immediately being dispatched to Jirapa for her secondary education came with what she describes as a “huge culture shock.”

There was limited electricity, no running water and a pace of life completely different from anything she had known. “At the time, I thought he was punishing me,” she says with a laugh.

Years later, however, that painful transition would become one of the greatest gifts of her life. “If my father were alive today, I would thank him every single day for that decision,” she says quietly.

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The experience, she explains, grounded her. It taught her humility, resilience and gratitude. More importantly, it gave her a deeper appreciation of sacrifice.

“It gave me a different outlook on life and a greater appreciation for my parents and everything they did for us.”

After secondary school and sixth form education, she gained admission to Carleton University in Canada. At the time, studying abroad was considered a major achievement for many Ghanaian families, especially for children from internationally exposed homes. But once again, her father encouraged her to think beyond prestige.

“He told me that if I wanted to live and work in Ghana, then I needed to build my network here,” she says.

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Mrs Bonsu

Shelving dream of becoming a diplomat

After her first degree, she dreamed of joining Ghana’s Foreign Service and had even written the Public Services Commission examination. Then, unexpectedly, her path changed.

While awaiting for the results from the Public Services Commission, she came across an advertisement in the Daily Graphic announcing admissions into the School of Communication Studies. “It just jumped at me,” she recalls.

She applied and was admitted into the postgraduate communication programme — a decision that would eventually shape the rest of her career. Around the same time, she also came to an important personal realisation.

“Being a foreign service child meant moving every four years,” she says. “I realised I actually wanted stability. I wanted roots.” It was a powerful discovery for someone who had spent most of her life constantly moving.

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Building a career, rebuilding self

Her professional journey began in 1999 at Japan Motors where she worked as a Public Relations Officer. Four years later, she moved to Societe Generale Bank ⁠following the bank’s acquisition of SSB Bank.

Again, after four years, she joined GTBank Ghanaghana.gtbank.com⁠ as Head of Corporate Affairs. Looking back, she now finds humour in the pattern. “It was much later that I realised it reflected how often we moved during my father’s diplomatic postings,” she explains.

Eventually, motherhood changed her priorities and she decided to leave corporate life behind to focus more on family and pursue entrepreneurship.

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The decision initially frightened her. Walking away from the security of a monthly salary into the uncertainty of business was not easy. But with savings, planning and the support of her husband, she took the leap.

“He has been very supportive emotionally, financially and professionally,” she says.

In 2010, she established her own communications and advertising agency. The early years tested her patience and resilience. “It wasn’t easy because nobody really knew us at the beginning,” she says.

Her first breakthrough came when Koala Super Market gave her company an opportunity. From there, the business gradually expanded through referrals, relationships and consistency. Over the years, the company weathered economic downturns and survived the COVID-19 pandemic.

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“We’ve had ups and downs, but by God’s grace, we are still standing,” she says.

Trailblazer is birthed

Even while building her business, one thing remained constant; her desire to help others. Mrs Osei-Bonsu traces that instinct directly to her father. “My father was very big on education and helping females in particular,” she says.

For years, she quietly supported people through payment of school fees and personal assistance. But during the COVID-19 pandemic, after volunteering with several organisations, she felt compelled to formalise her efforts.

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This decision she explained led to the birth of Trailblazers in 2020. The organisation focuses on supporting women and children through education, skills development and empowerment initiatives. It has worked with schools, orphanages and vulnerable women, while also supporting organisations such as Street Girls Aid.

For her, philanthropy is not charity. It is responsibility even though she admits the work comes with challenges. “One of the biggest difficulties is funding,” she explains. “Many organisations are all trying to access limited resources.”

Yet despite the obstacles, she remains deeply committed to the mission and this is because for her, success was not measured only by titles or professional accomplishments, but by impact.

Coming full circle

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Today, she looks back on her journey with gratitude.

The young girl who once arrived in Jirapa angry, uncomfortable and homesick now understands that those difficult years shaped the woman she would become.

Her story is ultimately one of rediscovery — a journey back to identity, purpose and service. “I now understand why my father insisted so much on where we came from,” she says.

And perhaps that is the most powerful lesson of all: sometimes the roots we resist the most are the very ones that anchor our lives.

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By Cliff Ekuful

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Inside Nima: Faith, culture, life in Accra’s vibrant community

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Nima Market
Nima Market

Long before Accra fully wakes, Nima is already alive. From dawn, the call to prayer rises across the community as worshippers move quietly through narrow streets toward nearby mosques. Not far away, market women arrange tomatoes, onions, pepper, and smoked fish on wooden tables, while vendors prepare warm bowls of Hausa koko for workers starting their day early.

National mosque

This is Nima, one of Accra’s oldest, busiest, and most culturally vibrant communities.

For residents, Nima is more than a place. It is identity, family, struggle, faith, and survival woven tightly into everyday life. It is a community where life is shared and survival is collective.

Nima traces its roots to the colonial era, when migrants from northern Ghana and neighbouring West African countries settled in Accra in search of work and opportunity. Many arrived with little, but over time built a strong and closely knit community shaped by hard work, faith, and mutual support.

The origin of the name Nima is widely debated. Some link it to the Ga language, where “Nii” refers to a king and “mann” to a city, loosely interpreted as “city of the king.” Others trace it to the Arabic word “Ni’ma,” meaning “blessings,” reflecting the community’s strong Islamic influence.

Regardless of its origin, Nima remains one of Ghana’s largest and oldest Zongo communities, with roots stretching back to the 19th century.

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By Esinam Jemima Kuatsinu

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